Reprinted from the Vol. 12, Issue 23 PinotFile issue.
The PinotFile is the first online publication devoted exclusively to Pinot Noir and is a beacon for those seeking to find the best expressions of the noble grape. Dr. William “Rusty” Gaffney, or as he is colloquially known, “The Prince of Pinot,” rates all wines and has become an authority on the grape varietal given his extensive tastings from around the world. West Coast wines tend to be a focus of the publication.
Rusty Gaffney, pictured with his favorite wine varietal.
In a recent issue of the PinotFile (Volume 22 Issue 19), I reviewed part of the exceptional lineup of 2019 Testarossa Pinot Noir wines. This issue is devoted to the remainder of the 2019 Pinot Noir releases from winemaker Bill Brosseau.
Testarossa Winery although possessing no estate vineyards, has an unrivaled lineup of superb partner vineyards in California, extending from the Russian River Valley to the Sta. Rita Hills. The single-vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines from these sources are the featured winery offerings. Nineteen single-vineyard small-lot Pinot Noirs and 14 single vineyard small-lot Chardonnays are produced.
Despite the excellence of the wines and their limited production, most are available at the winery’s website store. The winery and tasting patio in Los Gatos is open by reservation and proper COVID protocols are in place. Visit www.testarossa.com.
Winemaker Bill Brousseau has been integral in Testarossa’s 25+ years of consistently outstanding reviews by the nation’s most well-known critics. You can now add my name to that list.
96 points
2019 Brosseau Vineyard Pinot Noir
Chalone AVA
To be released Jan. 2022
“Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. The heady aromas are what draw me to Pinot Noir and are rarely captured in such an alluring fashion. Scents of dark cherry, pomegranate, spice and antique furniture never lose their intoxicating purpose over time in the glass. Mid-weight black cherry and black raspberry flavors have appealing spice and earth tones, Highly unique, with supportive tannins, a shadow of oak, impeccable harmony and a crazy long finish. When tasting this wine I wanted to swallow instead of spit. Even better when sampled the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.” Rusty Gaffney, The PinotFile
95 points
2019 Rincon Vineyard Pinot Noir
Arroyo Grande Valley AVA
“Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. This wine captures your attention from the get-go. Beguiling aromas of blackberry, ripest strawberry, earthy flora and pumpkin spice. Mid-weight plus in structural power, with fruit that really pops on entry and persists in generosity through a very long and quenching finish. Excellent balance and soft in the mouth with an array of vivid purple and black fruit and spice flavors supported by ingratiating tannins. Sinfully delicious even when tasted the following day from a previously opened bottle.” Rusty Gaffney, The PinotFile
94 points
2019 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot Noir
Santa Lucia Highlands AVA
“Moderate garnet color in the glass. The moody nose offers aromas of dark cherry, tilled earth and dark rose petal. Quite an extraordinary black cherry bombast on the palate. The impression is one of black tie refinement. The velvety mouthfeel makes it easy to find comfort in this wine. The remarkable finish stands out for is exceptional length of over thirty seconds.” Rusty Gaffney, The PinotFile
92 points
2019 Fogstone Pinot Noir
Santa Lucia Highlands AVA
“Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with aromas of black cherry, raspberry and wet earth. Sleek in texture and comforting on entry, with a discreet core of black cherry and purple berry fruit flavors shadowing with a bit of nutty oak. Nicely balanced and giving upon opening with some finishing power and persistence. My first experience with this vineyard.” Rusty Gaffney, The PinotFile
